Let’s see in detail how to choose the right collar. A trick to get the right size is to wear your shirt and move your neck to the right and to the left: if the position of the collar points does not change, your size is perfect. Secondly, you should wear your jacket and check if the cuff properly covers (too much or not enough) the lower part of the collar and the points, taking care that the back of your neck is always visible and never covered by your suit.
Then, the choice of a matching tie is very important, and even more important is the kind of necktie knots you want to use. An overly large knot may for instance lift up the collar points, thus resulting in an anti aesthetic look. A short description of the different types of collars and matching ties can be of help to match them:
Italian Collar - double straight collar points, ideal for formal and social events. Depending on the build and the type of tie to wear, the size and distance of this kind of collar from the points may vary by a few inches.
French Collar- “French” collar (although in France it is called “Italian”), a design that is considered young and trendy. Suitable for men who want to dress formally, while at the same time showing a fat tie knot. A pleasure made famous by the duke of Windsor all over the world: the name of the tie knot stems from him!
Button Down Collar- It is also called Soft Roll Collar. This type of collars includes all the collars with two small buttons that fasten down the points. It is a soft and informal design, dressed by casual/sportswear lovers. It was introduced by one of Brooks brothers at the beginning of the last century, when he discovered it being worn by English polo players.
Wing Collar - It is a design characterized by tips folded towards the outside. As the name suggests, it is suitable for very elegant events (it is also called “tailcoat” or “diplomatic”) where the use of cuffs with cuff links is a must. You can generally find it with white or ivory shirts made by valuable fabrics. It is usually matched to black or pearl grey ties.
Mandarin collar - Also known as Band collar, is a standing band-shaped minimalistic collar, made without collar leafs. In the past it was used for nightgowns, then for tuxedo shirts and fracs and finally today it's mostly used for casual linen and sports shirts.
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