Men's shirt collars: types, proportions and how to choose

Start with the occasion

For business and occasionwear, a structured cutaway or semi-spread collar gives a cleaner line beneath a jacket. Button-down collars are more relaxed and work naturally with chinos, knitwear and unstructured tailoring. A band collar is deliberately informal and is designed to be worn without a tie.

Main collar types

Match the collar to the tie

The knot should fill the available space without forcing the points apart. Wider collars can accept a fuller knot; narrower openings usually look more balanced with a compact knot. If the shirt is worn without a tie, the collar should still retain a clean shape beneath a jacket or jumper.

Use face and body proportions as a guide

More open collars can balance a longer or narrower face, while longer points can create a more vertical effect on a rounder face. These are visual guidelines rather than strict rules: shoulder width, jacket lapels and personal style also affect the result.

Collar names are not universal

Two brands can use the same collar name for shapes with different spreads and point lengths. Use the product photographs and description as the final reference rather than relying on the label alone.