European men's shirt construction guide
The men's shirt: construction, fit and fabrics
A men's shirt is defined by the interaction of collar, cuffs, buttons, pocket, fit and fabric. Understanding these elements makes it easier to compare shirts by formality, comfort and intended use.
How to choose a shirt
Begin with the occasion and the way the shirt will be worn. A business shirt under a jacket may call for a cleaner collar and a controlled fit, while a casual shirt can use softer construction, more visible texture or a bolder pattern. After choosing the general style, confirm fit, collar size, sleeve length and fabric.
The shirt collar
Italian collar
A balanced collar with moderate spread. It can work with or without a tie and adapts to many business and smart-casual outfits.
Cutaway collar
A wider spread that leaves more visible space around the tie knot and creates a distinctly formal, open line.
Button-down collar
The points are secured with buttons, giving the collar a more relaxed and practical character.
Collar proportions should work with the face, tie knot and jacket opening. The shirt collar guide explains the main differences in more detail.
The shirt cuff
Button cuff
The everyday option, closed with one or more buttons. Its shape and depth can vary, but it is generally easy to use with business and casual clothing.
French cuff
A folded cuff closed with cufflinks. It is associated with formal and ceremonial outfits and requires compatible accessories.
Buttons, buttonholes and pocket
Buttons
Material, thickness, colour and attachment influence both appearance and durability.
Buttonholes
Neat stitching and correct alignment help the front and cuffs close cleanly.
Chest pocket
A pocket adds practical and visual detail, but usually makes the shirt feel less formal.
The fit of a shirt
Fit describes how the shirt distributes fabric around the chest, waist, shoulders and arms. It is not the same as size. A larger size changes several measurements at once, while a different fit changes the silhouette more directly.
Comfort Fit
The roomiest silhouette, with generous ease through the torso and arms.
Classic Fit
A traditional, straighter shape with additional room through the chest and waist.
Regular Fit
A balanced line that combines moderate shaping with everyday comfort.
Slim Fit
A closer, more shaped silhouette with less volume through the torso.
How to check the fit
- The shoulder seam should sit close to the natural edge of the shoulder.
- The collar should close comfortably without pressure or a visible gap.
- The front should remain smooth without pulling across the chest.
- The sleeves should permit movement and finish correctly at the wrist.
- The body should look clean without strong tension lines or unnecessary folds.
Cotton shirt fabrics
Poplin
A fine, smooth weave with a clean surface, often chosen for business and formal shirts.
Oxford
A more visible, basket-like texture that gives the shirt a relaxed and robust character.
Twill
A diagonal weave that usually feels soft and can provide a more substantial drape.
Fabric performance also depends on yarn, weight, finishing and construction. Read the composition and care instructions for the individual product rather than judging the shirt only by the weave name.
Ready-to-wear or made-to-measure
Ready-to-wear shirt
Produced in defined sizes and fits. It offers an immediate selection when the measurements and silhouette match the wearer.
Made-to-measure shirt
Produced from individual choices and measurements. Availability, options and conditions depend on the service offered for the market.
Choose the shirt that suits you
Choose the construction and fit that suit the occasion, then confirm the garment measurements and fabric details shown for the individual shirt.
Explore men's shirts
Size guide
Shirt fit guide
Extra DISCOUNT 10% OFF
Use code: SUMMER26 - minimum purchase 99 EUR
Use code: SUMMER26
minimum purchase 99 EUR
Login and Registration Form